Dublin, Ireland (15th -17th March 2008)
Our bus arrives in the crowded city centre and I hop off and stroll down O’Connell Street towards my accommodation. Although I’ve just arrived I’m already getting the sense that this is a city with intense national pride. Of course, this is Dublin gearing up for its annual St. Patrick’s Day festival, the biggest calendar event of the year. Flags and banners line every street and green becomes the most fashionable of all colours, but I do get the impression that not all of these decorations are temporary. I arrive at the banks of the famous River Liffey which is very much still at the heart of Dublin. The river was once of course a major trade route, from the city’s Viking beginnings to more recent times with ships such as the Miranda Guinness used to export Guinness from the St. James's Gate Brewery. As I look along the riverbank a row of bridges bound into the distance and I make a mental note to walk across each one later. For now I must find myself a bed. I check into Abbey Court which has got to be one of the best situated hostels in which I have stayed. Right on the banks of the Liffey, overlooking O’Connell Bridge, Abbey Court provides the perfect starting point for exploring what Ireland’s capital has to offer. All at a reasonable rate too, I might add. Bags in and nothing on the TV (as if I would!), it’s time to venture out for a taste of the city. Naturally I decide to walk along the river and take in the sights. It immediately strikes me just how European Dublin feels. Perhaps it’s the riverside cafes and restaurants, the grand Georgian architecture or the relaxed tempo of the people. Dublin still manages to retain its own Irish charm, which may or may not have something to do with the amount of pubs you encounter! I can feel each one I pass teasing me with promises of the best pint of Guinness I’ve ever set lips on. There’s plenty of time for that I tell myself, let’s see if I can get to the end of one street before I give in. I’m thankfully distracted by an iconic looking structure, the Liffey Bridge or Ha'penny Bridge as it’s more commonly referred to. This cast-iron bridge was built in 1816 and earned its name from the ha’penny toll imposed on anyone wishing to cross it. The toll was soon dropped but the name lives on as does its charming features. Following the crowds like a lost Wildebeest I find myself across the river in what is surely the most frequented area in all of Ireland, Temple Bar. Now, for all of you first timers out there please pay close attention. Although there is a bar called Temple Bar in Temple Bar, Temple Bar is the name of the area, not just the Temple Bar bar, okay? To make things even more confusing there is not only one bar in Temple Bar, but dozens, which of course is a good thing. Temple Bar is Dublin’s cultural quarter and retains the city’s medieval street pattern, with many narrow cobbled streets containing a mixture of art galleries, theatres, restaurants and of course pubs. Of note there’s Oliver St. John Gogarty’s, the Quays Bar and The Porterhouse, all which offer the vibrant atmosphere, live music and flowing drinks that your travel brochure promised. However, I’ve been told that if you wish to avoid higher than average prices, too many elbows and more accents than a BT call centre, it’s best to avoid this tourist hotspot and venture a little further afield. Well, I’ll maybe just have the one pint here. When it comes to fiddles, singing, fresh Guinness and happy punters, Dublin certainly doesn’t disappoint, and I take note that it’s still only two in the afternoon. This is one of the biggest holidays of the year no doubt. I soon get talking to a couple of American travellers and one drink turns into many. Apparently this happens in Dublin. I’d feel rather guilty if I hadn’t crossed a river and walked two streets to get here.
I wake up in a strange room full of bunk beds, rather like a prison and it takes a few moments to realise that yes, this is my hostel. Apparently this happens in Dublin. I had been told about the infectious party atmosphere of the place and I’m quite pleased that another tale about non-existent hangovers also appears to hold true. Or maybe I’ve not quite sobered up yet. Time for some early morning exercise, so I take a stroll down O’Connell Street, over the river towards Trinity College, the oldest university in Ireland. These expansive college grounds offer plenty to keep any lover of history and architecture interested and guided tours are on offer for a more insightful experience. The prize ‘must see’ here is the 1200 year old Book of Kells, a ninth century manuscript that was painstakingly written and bound by Celtic monks of the time. Also well worth checking out is the Long Room, the most impressive library in the College, housing more than 200,000 of Trinity's oldest books. I could spend hours wandering the college’s halls, however my stomach tells me otherwise. Giving in to my morning hunger I head to Murrays Bar on O’Connell Street where I’m treated to one of the finest roast lunches in Dublin. They certainly don’t skimp on the portions here and any notion of a hangover is soon washed away with a little help from, yes, you guessed it, a pint of Guinness. Speaking of which I decide it’s time to pay my respects to the black stuff (it’s in-fact deep crimson I’m told) and head to the Guinness Storehouse. Located in St James’s Gate Brewery, this is Ireland’s number one visitor attraction, where you can appreciate the full history of Ireland’s biggest export. Built in 1904 to house the Guinness fermentation process this grand art deco building has seven floors which guide you through the history of the brew from how it is made to its incredible advertising legacy. The Gravity Bar occupies the building’s seventh floor where you can savour a complementary pint of your now highly regarded Guinness while enjoying stunning 360 degree views over the city. After spending some time exploring the shops and festival sights down Grafton Street it was time to meet up with friends and go for dinner with a difference. The Mongolian Barbeque is situated on Anglesea Street, one of Temple Bar’s quieter streets and offers something a little extra for your euros. After helping yourself to a large bowl of raw vegetables, meats, herbs, spices and your choice of sauce the chef cooks it all up in front of your eyes, flamboyantly scooping it back into your bowl ready to eat. By the time we’re back at our seats, mouths drooling, rice and chilled white wine are waiting. This is an ideal place to dine with friends and the best news is you can eat as much as you like. After a healthy filling we almost make it back to the hostel for an early night. However, this is Dublin in full swing, no early nights allowed! The Panama Bar on Bachelors Walk grabs us at the last minute and we drink into the night in a bustling New York atmosphere sharing memories of Australian beaches and Fijian sunsets.
Now I don’t know about you, but waking up to the sound of banking drums, tubas and cheering is not my idea of a hangover cure. It certainly got me out of bed early though. Squinting out of the window I realise that today must be St. Patrick’s Day (and my birthday no less) as thousands of revellers line the streets to watch the big parade. I’m not the biggest fan of crowds or parades but I feel I should at least check out what all the fuss is about. Walking down O’Connell Street I catch the odd glimpse of a big band or dancers in green uniform between the heads of seven foot tall children held aloft on fathers’ shoulders. It amazes me just how involved everyone is in this celebration of all things Irish. Looking at the crowds the colours green white and orange are everywhere. Children in top-hats with shamrocks, women in ‘kiss me I’m Irish’ t-shirts and even old men wearing bonnets and sunglasses with Irish flag lenses. The mood is certainly infectious as I soon find myself wearing a green furry hat and a ginger beard, just to blend in of course. As the floats pass on and the masses slowly dissipate the pubs fill up and I head back to the trusty Liffey where I decide now is as good a time as any to explore some more of the city. Custom House sits on the banks of the Liffey in grand neoclassical style. Built in the 18th century to collect custom duties the building now houses local government offices. Further down the river sits the Four Courts, built by the same architect James Gandon in 1802. Both of these buildings have seen their fair share of hard times in the city with Custom House being burnt down in 1921 and Four Courts destroyed by shelling in 1922 during unrest following the Irish War of Independence (1919-1921). Almost a thousand years of irreplaceable historical archives were lost during these attacks, but thankfully the buildings have since been returned to their former glory. The day draws on and it becomes clear that one or two revellers have had a few too many Guinness and I think it wise to head back and let the early drinkers find their way to bed. Back at the hostel I take the time to read a little more about the unrest experienced in Dublin and find a new admiration for how this city has flourished in recent years. In the evening as the streets have calmed somewhat I venture back out and soon meet up with a crowd in Fitzgerald’s for a social drink and some good old fashioned Irish folk music. The live band strut their stuff and we’re singing along to ‘The Wild Rover’, ‘Whiskey in the Jar’ and ‘With or Without You’ in no time. Drinks in hand and surrounded by new friends it’s a fitting end to this brief but intense taste of Dublin, the effects of which I’ve no doubt will be felt long after I return home. Written by Daniel Sweeney, escapeimages.com When to go Where to stay Getting there Getting around Travel Tips The coast around Dublin is stunning so if you have time its well worth travelling out of the city for the day. Malahide is just north of the city where you can visit the town’s castle and enjoy a range of culinary delights in its many cafes and restaurants. A little further north lays the town of Skerries which offers beautiful coastal views and hosts the annual Skerries 100 TT motorcycle race each July. Before you travel make sure you check out the exchange rate for your local currency. Dublin, like many big cities, can be very expensive. Prices have soared since Ireland joined the Euro in 1999 and now Dublin sits at 16th place in the World’s Most Expensive Cities list (2007). Further info Photography Images are available as high resolution Adobe 1998 RGB TIFF files and can be supplied on CD/DVD or via email/FTP as required. |
Dublin is both the largest and the capital city of Ireland. Located on the mouth of the River Liffey Dublin has been Ireland's primary city for most of the country's history. There's a vibrant nightlife in Dublin and it's reputedly one of the most youthful cities in Europe.
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